Marbled Hamantaschen

This recipe is from Deb Perlman / Smitten Kitchen –  I was enticed by the “marble” effect with the two doughs as well as the cheesecake filling – as a way to add a little more interest to these cookies that doooo have a slight tendency to be dry, crumbly and a teeny bit unappetizing, in more traditional recipes.  Perhaps the reason this cookie is better than the traditional cookie – is due to its defiance of its religious roots.  The Hamantaschen is primarily a cookie prepared and eaten during Purim, the Jewish carnival-like holiday in February or March.  Historically speaking, Jewish recipes that would be Kosher, would not have dairy in the mix, thus the use of oil or margarine…but many recipes do sub out butter for a slightly better tasting cookie that’s closer to a shortbread.  This recipe was definitely more cookie-like with butter, rather than oil in the mix.  Along with the cheese cake filling I also opted to make some with the more traditional raspberry and apricot fillings – because, well… they’re delicious too.  There are supposedly many fillings you can do from sweet to savory…including the traditional poppy seed filling (Mohn Hamantaschen) – basically this is a tasty little cookie pocket that you can fill with whatever you want – sign me up!

 

Again, I’m trying the recipe from Smitten Kitchen – and I found Deb’s notes on the brittle-ness of the dough to be helpful, she revised her recipe to reduce the flour amount – thus resulting in a slightly more hydrated dough – which I think helped the cooking keep shape.  One thing you may notice when folding up the sides is breakage.  Then during baking, often the points come undone and the filling spills out.  So – having a slightly wetter dough should help the pocket stay closed and keep its nice shape.  Either way – don’t stress… whatever comes out of the oven will still be yours to eat, and it will be delicious.

 

Below is the recipe

after which I provide a little more backstory on our lovely three sided religious cookie.

INGREDIENTS:

 
CHEESECAKE FILLING:
  • 1 cup / 8 ounces cream cheese (room temperature)
  • 1/3 cup / 65 grams granulated sugar
  • Two pinches of fine sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon Vanilla Extract
  • 1 teaspoon Lemon Juice
  • 1 large Egg yolk
DOUGH
  • 1/3 cup / 40 grams Powdered Sugar
  • 1/3 cup / 65 grams Granulated Sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine Sea or Table Salt
  • 2 cups / 265 grams AP Flour 
  • 12 tablespoons / 170 grams unsalted Butter, cut into cubes (room temperature)
  • 1 large Egg
  • 1/2 teaspoon Vanilla Extract
  • 1/3 cup / 45 grams additional AP Flour
  • 1/3 cup / 30 grams Cocoa Powder  (any kind)

INSTRUCTIONS: 

prior to mixing:
  • prepare your large cookie sheet by lining it with parchment paper, cut to size
  • Set rack to middle, and pre-heat your oven to 350°F / 170°C

Make Cheesecake filling

In a small-medium bowl:
  1. Mash cream cheese and sugar with a fork (this will be easy if room temperature and take a couple minutes longer if it’s cold, but will work either way).
  2. Add salt, vanilla, lemon juice, and egg yolk 
  3. Blend until smooth. Transfer to the refrigerator until needed.

Make dough in a food processor:

  1. Combine the sugars, salt, and 2 cups of the flour in the work bowl.
  2. Add butter and mix or pulse until it disappears, then keep running the machine until it just begins to clump.
  3. Add egg and vanilla
  4. Beat until combined into one big or a few smaller masses, scraping down the bowl as needed for even blending, then keep running the machine until the dough is smooth and easily forms one big blob. This might take up to a full minute longer.

Make dough in a stand mixer or with a hand mixer:

  1. Combine butter, sugars, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer and beat until creamy and thoroughly combined. (If you began with cold butter in a stand mixer, this will take a couple minutes and require you to scrape down the bowl a few times.)
  2. Add egg and vanilla and beat until combined.
  3. Add 2 cups of the flour and beat until it disappears.
  4. Keep mixing until the dough is smooth and easily forms one big ball; this might take up to a full minute longer.
  5. Scrape down the bowl.

All methods:

Scoop half the dough into a separate bowl. You can eyeball it, or, if you have a digital scale, my dough halves weighed 308 grams each. Add remaining 1/3 cup flour to one half of the dough, and 1/3 cup cocoa powder to the second half, mixing until blended. Once again, run the mixer or machine until the dough is no longer crumbly and is in one big mound; this can take 30 to 60 seconds longer. [If using a food processor or stand mixer, I mix flour in the half that’s still in the bowl of the machine, scoop it out, add the second half of dough to the machine and blend in the cocoa.]
 

Marble your dough:

Place a large piece of parchment paper on your counter. Spoon little dollops of chocolate and vanilla doughs all over, alternating dollops a little but no need to be very checkerboarded about it. Use an offset spatula, bench scraper, or even a spoon to smoosh and mush some of the pieces together, creating areas that are more blended and leaving some unblended.
 

Roll dough out:

Cover with a second sheet of parchment paper and roll doughs out into an even 1/8-inch thick slab. If you started with cold butter, the dough will probably be solid enough right now to skip it. If it feels very mushy/warm, however, slide the onto the back of a large baking sheet and pop into the freezer (or, uh, outside if it’s cold but not snowing where you are) for 3 minutes. We do not want the dough to be hard, just somewhat firmed up but still very bendy.
Form shapes: Return the dough slab to your counter. Carefully peel the parchment sheet off the top and replace it. (This loosens it.) Flip slab over onto the loosened side and remove the top parchment sheet entirely. Use this to line a large baking sheet.

 

Cut dough into 3-inch rounds. 

 

Fill:

Place a measured 1-teaspoon dollop of cream cheese filling in the center of each. Or, 1 full teaspoon of your jam of choice – I used raspberry and apricot.  (Note – if you opt to use other fillings than the cheesecake filling – you will have left over cheesecake filling as the amounts listed above are intended for the full use per the recipe)

 

Fold: 

Carefully lift up the edges in 3 sections and pinch the corners closed and continue to pinch/”zip up” the cooking, pinching it closed, until only a marble-to-quarter-sized opening remains. Don’t worry if the center looks underfilled; the cream cheese expands in the oven. Transfer each to the parchment-lined baking sheet. These do not spread, so you can fit them fairly close together on the tray — i.e. 1-2 inches apart.
To reroll scraps, pile them in the center of the piece of parchment paper and place a second sheet on top again. Repeat the process of rolling the dough thin, briefly cooling it, loosening the back, and cutting it into circles until all the dough and about 2/3 the filling is used.

 

Bake Hamantaschen:

For 20 to 25 minutes, until pale parts of dough are golden brown. Transfer to cooling rack.

 

Store:
Hamantaschen keep in fridge for up to one week.
 

The super brief story of the Hamantaschen:

 

This cookie isn’t just a cookie, no… this cookie is the tasty embodiment of the saviour of an entire people and ideology from being murdered off the map… ( YAY! We aren’t succumbing to genocide! Lets make some COOKIES!! )  Making cookies to celebrate life sounds like a PERFECTLY reasonable response to escaping death, but something’s telling me history has made a convenient story for this little cookie.  

 

Sooo I’ve only enjoyed these cookies from the bakery every once and while – however, not being Jewish (well, having no religious upbringing at all), I didn’t realize the story behind these cookies.  The story goes something like this:  the Evil Villain Haman planned to kill all the Jews from the Persian Empire, but his plan was thwarted by the hero of the story, Queen Esther.  

Who’s the Evil Villain Haman? and Queen Esther for that matter? 

During the 5th century BCE in the ancient Persian Empire, the then King of Persia (Ahasuerus or Xerxes I… some debate there) appointed what appears to be a super wealthy ego-maniac as Prime Minister that goes by a single word name, HAMAN.  Upon ascending to his role, the diva HAMAN decrees that everyone in the kingdom must bow down to him as if he were an idol.  Mr. Mordecia living in Shushan (current day Susa, Iran) decided to say NOPE – me and my people are NOT bowing down to you. Period.  In retaliation and upon discovering Mordecai’s Jewish faith, Haman decided that all the Jews of Shushan and the entire Persian Empire shall be killed, simple.  He convinces the King that this was a great idea, so the King agrees, and confirms the plan.  One small detail however… the King’s new wife, Queen Esther, is….JEWISH. (did he not think this through?)  And she’s no ordinary Jewish woman either, she also happens to be the cousin and adopted daughter of Mordecai, the guy who defied Haman in the first place!

Not surprisingly, Mordecai has a direct line of communication to the Queen, his adoptive daughter, and he informs her of the craziness that is Haman.  She convinces the King to not only stop the decree – but reverse it completely, authorizing the Jews to kill their enemy – Haman!  Now it was Haman and his people that got the ax! (well, i’m not sure how they died – I think they were sent to the gallows…so no maybe no ax)

So in celebration of being saved by Queen Esther, the Jewish folks planned a massive feast called “Purim” that is usually sometime in February or March- which over time turned into a raucous festival with noise makers, costumes and mandatory alcohol drinking!

I’m no religious scholar – but I love how these western religions work. Do we think there’s any coincidence that this raucous party-like holiday also happens around the same time as the Mardi Gras and Carnival?.. I’m not discrediting any historical relevance – but all these holidays are quite similar in function, despite being formed for very different reasons… but honestly? After months of being cooped up inside during the cold winter – it’s probably a good time of year to bust loose and get crazy.  However, I love the historical context and the resulting food traditions…and I always love a party.

So how did we get this delicious cookie?..

Where in that story is there any reference to a cookie?..

As far as I can tell, a cookie played no part in the evil plot by Haman and the foil of said plot and resulting salvation by Queen Esther – other than, now it’s part of a celebration in the form of a party called Purim, and that party includes cookies.  Specifically, these three sided / pointed cookies that are stuffed with yummy fillings. The name of the cookie provides some context however – as it’s German.  Supposedly these three sided cookies appeared in German speaking lands by the name of Mohntaschen around the 16th century – which may have been adopted as said party cookie Hamantaschen for the purposes of celebrating the end of Haman and the evil plot he wanted to carry out.  In German, mohn translates to “poppy seed” and tashen means “pocket”.  During winter, Poppy seeds were often harvested and eaten as a snack during an otherwise bleak period of the year.  Poppy seeds can be made into jams and fillings for foods – and as a reminder, poppy seeds come from the opium poppy plant that also contain morphine and codeine compounds that for centuries have been used for its medicinal properties – so it’s entirely possible that that a mixture from the poppy plant containing seeds and concentrates of sap baked into a jam and stuffed into three sided cookies could produce an intoxicating treat – perhaps one perfectly suited for a crazy party?.. Who knows, it’s anyone’s guess.  

Other more publicly accepted reasons for adopting the cookie is the shape – lore has it that the trifolded cookie was a direct replica of a similar trifolded hat that Haman himself wore.  Also, the poppies supposedly represent money (coins) that filled Haman’s pockets (taschen) because of his wealth and the bribes he often took.  The hat theory has been pretty much disproven and so the coin in pocket theory sort of stands alone.  Personally, I’d like to believe the intoxicating German cookie theory – It certainly makes for a more fun party! (which is the point of the cookie, right?)

Because I’m not remotely claiming I knew any of this history –  I just love scouring the web for food history – I’m hoping what I read and loosely translated here is mostly legit – but if anyone has comments or corrections, please educate me with your comments in the section below. 

Below are a few websites that I read up and down to gain knowledge- (they seem to be legitimate)

What is Purim? Learn All About the Jewish Holiday Purim (toriavey.com)

What Are Hamantaschen? | The Nosher (myjewishlearning.com)

Honesty, this only barely scratches the surface of the history and tradition of this particular food- my intent is to educate myself on the foods I love and share these stories along the way.

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